Everest, Mount

Papers relating to Mount Everest expeditions which do not form part of the Everest Collection.

SSC/38/1:

Small autograph book containing autographs of the porters of the 1924 expedition. With two covering letters from donor, H. W. Griffiths, dated 20.3.47.

SSC/38/2:

Printed leaflet. 'Joint meeting of Royal Geographical Society and Alpine Club to receive the Reports from the Mount Everest Expedition of 1924. Royal Albert Hall 17 October 1924.' Includes list of speakers and diagram of Everest with points reached by climbers 1922 and 1924.

SSC/38/3:

Printed notice. 'A memorial service for George Herbert Leigh-Mallory and Andrew Comyn Irvine.'

Printed order of service. 'St Paul's Cathedral. A service in memory of George Herbert Leigh-Mallory and Andrew Comyn Irvine. Friday, October 17, 1924 at twelve noon.'

SSC/38/4:

Mt. Everest Expedition 1924, postcard sent by John Noel to Mrs. P. Fielding, Norwich, 1924. With Mount Everest Expedition stamp. Donated by Mrs. Avery, 22/02/1982.

SSC/38/5:

Tibetan letters, orders, passport with translations and transcriptions for Everest expeditions 1922 and 1924.
The letters were sent to the School of Oriental Studies for advice, and an explanatory letter regarding the organisation of the letters from H.L. Shuttleworth, dated 4 Feb 26 provides more details. His letter notes ‘5 Mount Everest Expedition Tibetan letters etc. marked A,B,C,D,E in R.G.S. I have marked these letters in red ink on Tibetan letters, English translations, and 2 Tibetan envelopes. All were badly mixed up. I have given full transcriptions in English of all place names and short spelling on Col-O’Connor’s system on a lettered slip attached to the translations, which I have also corrected especially as to names. The letter order is not correct chronologically.
A 1921-2;
E 1922 January;
B 1922 June;
C 1922 November;
D 1924 February;
7 English translation only. 1924 February.' (Folder: EE/26/1/1)

SSC/38/5/1

Items marked A.
‘Prime Minister of Tibet’s order to the Dzongpens and Headmen of Phar, Tinki, Kampa and Kharta. Iron Bird year (1921).’ Large, red square seal.
Typescript. ‘Translation. To: The Dzongpens and Headmen of Phari, Tinki, Kampa and Kharta. Despatched during the Iron-Bird Year (1921). Seal of the Prime Minister.’ 1p. With 2 typed copies and 1 photocopy.
Typescript. ‘Translation. To: The Dzongpens and Headmen of Phari, Tinki, Kampa and Kharta. Despatched during the Iron-Bird Year (1921). Seal of the Prime Minister.’ With annotations. Foolscap, 1p.
Ms note. ‘Prime Minister of Tibet order of Iron Bird year (1921). Place names. Transliteration and brief spelling. Signed. H.L. Shuttleworth.’ 1p.

SSC/38/5/2

Items marked E.
Passport issued by the Prime Minister of Tibet. (1922). Large, red, square seal.
Typescript. ‘Translation of a passport by the Prime Minister of Tibet.’ ‘Despatched on the 17 day of the 11 month of the Iron Bird Year (15 January 1922).’ Foolscap, 1p. (In 2 pieces)
Typescript. ‘Translation of a passport by the Prime Minister of Tibet.’ ‘Despatched on the 17 day of the 11 month of the Iron Bird Year (15 January 1922).’ With annotations. Foolscap, 1p.
Ms. note. ‘Passport – dated 17 day XI month of the Iron Bird year. 15.1.1922. Transliterations of place names. Pronunciation and short spelling. Signed, H.L. Shuttleworth.’ 1p.

SSC/38/5/3

Items marked B.
‘H.H. The Dalai Lama’s letter to Major F.M. Bailey, dated 6 day of IV month of Water dog year.’ Small, red, round seal.
Envelope.
Brief ms. note. ‘H.H. The Dalai Lama’s letter to Major F.M. Bailey –dated 6 day of IV month of Water-dog year and envelope. 1922. Signed H.L. Shuttleworth.’ Transliteration of place name. 1p.
Typescript. ‘Translation of a letter from His Holiness the Dalia Lama of Tibet to Major F.M. Bailey, C.I.E., Political Officer in Sikkim, dated the 6 day of the 4th month of the Water-dog year (corresponding to the 1 June, 1922).’ 1p.
Typescript. Translation of a letter from His Holiness the Dalai Lama of Tibet to Major F.H. Bailey, C.I.E., Political Officer in Sikkim dated the 6 day of the 4th month of the Water-dog year (corresponding to the 1st June, 1922).’ With annotations. 1p.

SSC/38/5/4

Items marked C.
‘H.H. The Dalai Lama to Brigadier General C. Bruce, dated 16 day of the 9 month of the Water-dog Year (corresponding to 5th November 1922).’ Small, red, round seal.
Envelope.
Typescript. ‘Translation of a letter from His Holiness the Dalai Lama to Brigadier General C. Bruce of the Mount Everest Expedition dated the 16 day of the 9 month of the Water Dog Year (corresponding to the 5 November 1922).’ With annotations and signature dated 21/11/22. 1p.
Typescript. ‘Translation of a letter from His Holiness the Dalai Lama to Brigadier General C. Bruce of the Mount Everest Expedition dated the 16 day of the 9 month of the Water Dog Year (corresponding to the 5 November 1922).’ On red card. 1p. No transliteration.

For the scarf donated with the letter see Artefact Collection, rgs700409. Artefact Tex. Box D 3.

SSC/38/5/5

Items marked D.
‘Parwana issued by the Prime Minister of Tibet to the Dzongpens of Kampa, Tinki, Shekar and Kharta for supply of transport and supplies to the Mount Everest Expedition.’ Large, red, square seal.
Typescript. ‘Translation of a parwana issued by the Prime Minister of Tibet to the Dzongpens of Kampa, Tinki, Shekar and Kharta for supply of transport and supplies to the Mount Everest Expedition.’ 1p.
Typescript. ‘Translation of a parwana issued by the Prime Minister of Tibet to the Jongpns/ Dzong-pens of Khambajong, Ting-kye, Shel-kar and Khar-ta for supply of transport and supplies to the Mount Everest Expedition.’ With annotations. 1p.
Ms note. ‘Parwana, dated 20th day of I month of Wood Mouse. (25/2/24). Transliterations. Pronunciation and brief spelling. Signed H. L. Shuttleworth.’ 1p.

EE/26/1/1 – letter sent to Bruce by Bailey, dated 11 March refers to and includes translation of Prime Ministers covering letter. The letter is marked 7 which corresponds with Shuttleworth’s reference in his letter EE/26/1/9.

SSC/38/5/6

Unidentified Tibetan letter, small, square, black seal.

Envelope with seal (marked F).

Original envelope for ‘five sho of Tibetan gold dust.’ For gold dust see Artefact Collection, rgs242162. Artefact D1. (1)

A translation of the letter from the Dalai Lama presenting the gold and scarf to General Bruce together with an explanation on the scarf’s significance can be found in Archives, EE/26/1/5. The translation was carried out by Sir Charles Bell, dated October 1925.

Printed labels for gold dust transferred to Artefact Collection, rgs242162. Artefact D1. (1).

3 sheets of photographic prints of the Tibetan letters with their translations. Labels do not match the original identification letters. Letter marked C is actually B. E is letter D, B is E. F matches the translation letter EE/26/1/5.

SSC/38/6:

Store book of the Mount Everest 1933. Presented by E.O. Shebbeare.

SSC/38/8:

Printed booklet. 'Ascent of Everest 1953.'

2 copies. 1st copy: Labelled 'Map Room Reference copy.' 2nd copy: Presented by Alys Goodchild, 21 August 20204. The booklet belonged to her father Glynn Owen (MBE), a physicist at the University Hospital in Cardiff.

The booklet includes an introduction by Sir Edwin Herbert, President, Alpine Club and Mr. J. M. Wordie, President, Royal Geographical Society; a note from Buckingham Palace, Philip Patron, British Mount Everest Expedition, message from Colonel Sir John Hunt; list of Members of the Expedition and Himalayan Committee; 'Ascent of Everest,' by Wilfrid Noyce; photographs of members of the expedition, Hillary and Tenzing, Colonel John Hunt using a wireless, Thyangboche Monastery, Evans and Bourdillon, Major Wylie leading his party of Sherpas... and advertisements by expedition supporters e.g. Rowntrees, Smiths watches, Dunlop Rubber Co. Ltd, Simpkins Vita glucose tablets, Siebe, Gorman & Co Ltd, Kenyon ropes, William Kenyon & Sons Ltd, Li-Lo Air-Beds, Kodak, Geographical Journal and Geographical Magazine.

Printed programme for 'First performance of 'The conquest of Everest.' Warner Theatre, London, England. 21 October 1953.' A ticket for the performance is attached to front inside board.

SSC/38/9:

Folder of correspondence 1953-1962 from RGS Drawing Office files, chiefly concerning Everest mapping. Correspondents include Louise A. Boyd, H.F. Milne, Charles Evans, Norman Hardie, Erwin Schneider, J.C. Bartholomew, Gen R. Llewellyn Bowen, Professor Richard Finsterwalder, G.S. Holland, G.R. Crone and L. Kirwan.

SSC/38/10:

Ms. notes on headed 'Mount Everest Expedition paper. 'Description of stones from Mount Everest.' [1922]. 1p. For the stones see Artefact Collection rgs700611. Artefact D 20 (2).

SSC/38/11:

Ms letter to John [Hunt] from George [Lowe] dated 29 Feb. 1980. 2p.

George has seen in the Telegraph a reference to a lady's shoe found at Camp III which leads him to comment on his conversations with Eric Shipton and Dan Bryant on their find of the tent and body of Maurice Wilson during their 1935 Everest Expedition.

SSC/38/12:

Volume of news cuttings relating to Everest, 1922-1923.

SSC/38/13:

Photocopy of ms. letter to Royal Geographical Society from Col. E. P. J. Ryan, dated 18.10.83. enclosing a signed menu by 1933 Everest Expedition members. 2p. (original letter in Archivists correspondence).

Enclosure: Himalayan Club dinner menu, 3 August 1933, with photograph and signed by Everest Expedition 1933 members.

SSC/38/14:

Folder of correspondence between Everest Expedition members, 1951-1953 and Sir Christopher Summerhayes, British Ambassador to Nepal in Kathmandu. Includes The Times code and telegram of successful ascent. Sent to RGS by Sir Christopher Summerhayes.

SSC/38/15: Items found on George Leigh Mallory's body by the 1999 'Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition' led by Eric Simonsen and sponsored by AFFIMER.

a: Ms. letter from Geoffrey Bruce to Mallory, dated Camp III, 5 June.

b: Blank envelope.

c: Ms. list of supplies: 'Army ration.'

d: Ms. list of supplies: 'Tea 1/4 lb.'

e: Ms. list of food, Camps III, II, I.

f: Ms. list of food, Camps III, II, I.

g: Ms. letter to Mallory from J. Noel, undated. On verso letter commencing 'Dear Odell and other officers.'

h: Remittance advice to G.H. Leigh Mallory from A.W. Gamage Ltd., dated March 1924.

i: Ms. list of food for Camps v & vii, vi. On 'Mount Everest Expedition' headed paper.

SSC/38/16:

Items from Christopher Summerhayes found amongst Lord John Hunt Collection in 2007.

a: 13 photographs. Some taken by Doug Scott and others taken during official receptions for Hillary and Everest teams 1953-1954. Also covering letter form Sakena at the Indian Embassy, Nepal.

b: Printed programme for 'First performance of 'The conquest of Everest.' Warner Theatre, London, England. 21 October 1953.'

c: Article from Punch 29 May 1968 regarding Everest journalists.

d: Souvenir menu card of Reception and luncheon of King and Queen of Nepal in London 18 October 1960 and related invitations, seating plans.

SSC/38/17-OVERSIZE:

News cuttings from 'The Hindu' between 26 May-12 July 1953.

Donated by Andrew Fair, December 2009. Cuttings collected by his mother-in law, Mrs. Christina Russell when she lived in India during the time her husband James, worked for The Chartered Bank.

SSC/38/18:

Lecture bill for 'Illustrated lecture by Sir Edmund Hilary ( first man to reach the summit of Mount Everest) at the Carlton Cinema in Monday 20 June at 5.30 p.m.' With three tickets to the lecture.

Items donated by Alex Lawrence, June 2010. The date of lecture is thought to be sometime between 1957-1959 and was held in Lusaka, Zambia.

SSC/38/19:

Order form for RGS Christmas card, 1963, commemorating ascent of Everest.

SSC/38/15 - these items were exhibited at the National Mountaineering Exhibition in Rheged, Cumbria from 1999-2006-8. Artefact Collection includes clothing and other relics recovered in 1999.

Printed labels for the gold dust transferred to Artefact Collection to be stored with item.

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